Although we cannot completely humanize a dog, we
can, however,
have successfully trained, well educated dogs, without making
machines of them. To be thoroughly convinced of the truth of
this statement, you have only to attend a dog training class,
where you will be quite welcome and where you will see for
yourself how admirably the dogs work wearing training collars.
Unfortunately, many join these classes only after they have
gotten into trouble with an unmanageable dog, and sometimes they
expect correction too quickly. For such cases, especially where
the dog's fighting spirit has been allowed to develop, the
training collar is a necessity. It is always a pleasure when
someone brings along a puppy for the purpose of asking advice
about preparation for training when the dog has reached the
proper age.
Much trouble can be prevented, and considerable work saved, if
education is begun early. Naturally, however, it is not
advisable to use the training collar on puppies. This collar can
be used for another purpose also: by reversing it, it can take
the place of a plain collar. Due to its very limited choking
effect, it cannot do as much harm as the ordinary choke collar
with its veritable strangling propensity.
Now that we know what a training collar is, and how best to use
it, let us consider next the leash. A good, leather leash that
is necessary for the purpose of keeping the dog under control
before he is actually leash-broken, should be strong enough to
hold the dog according to his size. Avoid the chain leash
because of its cutting strain upon the trainer's hands--even
small dogs like fox terriers and dachshunds possess an almost
unbelievable pulling power.
The whip leash, the kind made in the form of a whip with a snap
hook at the end, I condemn unreservedly. You have only to use
such a leash once as a whip, to find that the dog eyes it with
mixed feelings whenever he goes out of doors. How is he to know
whether he is invited out for fun and play or for a whipping!
This bit of faulty equipment can lay the foundation for shyness,
one of the most difficult things to conquer in all dog training,
so by all means let us abolish use of the whip leash right at
the start.
In addition to the short, leather leash, we will need the
"longe" or long leash, no more than about ten yards in length
and of flat material to prevent dangling. This equipment is not
needed in the beginning, but it will prove of real service in
later lessons; in fact, it would require too much space to
explain the various uses of the long leash. Suffice it to state
here that its chief purpose is for bringing the dog under
control at a distance, for preventing him from chasing
automobiles, cats, horses, etc.
Another necessity is the chainette or throwing chain, a plain
chain, closed at both ends and devoid of any sharp edges. For
necessary punishment or correction to be effective, we must keep
our hands off the dog; moreover, the article used to administer
punishment must not be visible. This of course is impossible
when a whip is used. While holding a whip in your hand, call a
dog to you. Fear of the whip will prompt him to approach you
hesitatingly, his tail between his legs. And he will not come
all the way, but will remain at some distance, out of reach.
The chainette produces an entirely different reaction, after it
is thrown, the dog will turn to you for protection and, if
encouraged by friendly words, he will approach you more quickly
because he sees nothing to arouse his suspicion. Do not allow
him to see you pick up the chainette. This whole procedure, even
though of corrective intent, creates in the dog, the sense of
being controlled by awakening him to the fact that we can reach
him from any direction, from any distance. And we can get him
under control more quickly and more effectively than by chasing
him with the whip.
To attempt going after him sends him farther away. But hit him
lightly just a few times and he will straightway associate the
rattling of the chainette with the thing which struck him, and
soon the mere shaking of the chainettc or a bunch of keys, even,
will be sufficient warning against attempted or desired
disobedience. He will come at once when called. In some cases a
whistle will be found essential to the trainer's equipment.
Oftentimes in the woods and on large estates, or even in very
stormy weather, the sound of a call or command is carried away
by the wind. In instances of this kind J advise a plain, sharp
whistle, if possible different in tone or volume from the usual
police whistle, which might confuse the dog if heard on the
street. The same must be said of the so-called "silent whistles"
now on the market: they possess the disadvantage of being heard
by every dog and for class training they are of no use at all.
To complete the equipment a dumbbell is needed for retrieving.
Many specialty clubs have standard sizes and weights according
to the size of the dog. The main thing is that it should not be
too heavy, and that it should have enough space between the ends
so that the dog can pick it up without difficulty. The material
should be of hard wood that will not splinter.
And now some suggestions to the amateur guide or beginner. Not
infrequently the dress or suit of the guide is confusing. Do
not, therefore, wear long skirts or coats during training for
they permit the dog only a limited vision, and cause him to stay
away from the guide or to follow possibly at too great a
distance.
A perhaps unconscious fault of the fair sex engaged in training
work is the wearing of extremely high heels. Often have I
observed with six-inch heels, women scarcely able to balance
themselves on the ground, trying to keep a dog following after
them. And the dog ... it looks as though he expects his guide to
do a double somersault at any moment, and he keeps at a safe
distance. Actually, it's impossible to get him close to the knee
for, apparently sensing this lack of sure footing in his guide,
he feels himself in the path of a fall! May I add that the
training field is no place for a fashion show and that this type
of footwear should be eliminated throughout training practice!
Jane Simpson is a freelance writer and regularly writes on
matters related to pets. She writes frequently for
http://www.terrier-breeds.com , as well
as
http://www.training-pitbull-dogs-n-breeds.com
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